DIY: Mugen FK8 Wing Install

Well, I’m happy to be able to post this sooner than I had originally thought. The main fact being that I was having trouble finding someone that could paint the wing ASAP so I could get it installed. In talking to Jason Divina, he got a bunch of his Mugen recently painted in Boost Blue so I was able to get  a spot this week to get it painted! Hoo-rah!

I’m TOO stoked on the outcome of this – honestly, I never thought I’d really ever own the Mugen wing mainly because of the cost. It’s worth noting that at the time this wing was announced, only the carbon version was released and that was a hefty $11,000. Yes, eleven thousand dollars. I can spend $1k on a wing, $2k on a wing, hell I’ll spend $4k on a wing but I can’t justify $11,000 lol. The most expensive wing that I had bought was the swan neck Voltex wing for the FRS. Anyway, shortly after the release of the carbon version – Mugen released the FRP version – which btw is still no cheap option – but is definitely more affordable. I decided early on in the year (January) to bite the bullet and just do it otherwise it would just eat at me forever. So fast forward and here we are – the part has landed, it’s been painted and now we install…

Beautifully painted in Champ White.

The stock wing was off already because I was prepared to install when it landed but when I realized it wasn’t actually painted, it just sat there lol. Anyway, first step was to remove the two plugs (already out in this pic) and then Mugen supplied small foam stickers to place over the holes where the new bolts would be used.

The wing brackets mounted onto the trunk. Two bolts and two nuts right underneath the trunk. Super easy.

Upon having the brackets installed, you install the side legs on the inner portion of the brackets. 3 bolts, 3 washers, 3 nuts. Easy.

I also want to add again – Mugen fitment is basically OEM. Just perfect.

Look at how it lines up with the trunk. Made me wet my pants tbh. I love when fitment is perfect and Mugen never fails to deliver.

Once the wing stands are on, mount up the foil with two bolts. Note that it’s adjustable but I just opted for a simple and straight mount to keep things clean and simple. Lets be real, this ain’t hitting the track and needing downforce anytime soon LOL

Next up was to put on the side covers to cover up the brackets. I would like to make a special request to Mugen. Please do not put the responsibility of cutting and putting on the 3M tape in the hands of the customer. LOL I hated doing this part because I didn’t want to mess it up. It ended up perfect but still! Mugen tells you exactly where to put them btw.

Also, badge of authenticity… I’ve been seeing a lot of fake ass Mugen showing up lately and it makes me cringe. Don’t fake the funk please… There are only a HANDFUL of people that actually have the carbon version and everyone pretty much knows who they are. There are people out there rocking a “carbon” one and we all know you didn’t pay $10k for that wing when the rest of your car is made up of APR and has homemade splitter rods, bruv.

The super cool thing is that Mugen provides new trunk bumpers to use. Probably because when you remove the original ones, they pretty much just wreck themselves on the way out. They’re still useable but they become wobbly. So shout out to Mugen for including these!

Some shots now of the side piece now on.

A+ fitment.

Awesome lines in the wing. Took a while to grow on me – much like the whole Mugen kit – but now I’m absolutely in love.

How much are these worth? $2k? Cause I was scared AF to mess this up LOL

As expected – Mugen also tells you exactly how to put on the decals with measurements and such. Talk about the pressure. Got me busting out the ruler and marking and making sure it was exact Mugen-spec LOL.

I held my breath hella long to do this LOL

But success! Looks MF-ing SICK!

So damn clean.

Kind of the best side profile shot I could get. The car isn’t really ready for a photoshoot yet – I’m still waiting to get my lip back from paint so until I get that, no photos. It’ll just sit in the corner looking pretty lol.

And one last shot to leave you with. Yes, I know there are a few more Mugen pieces but I’m still unsure about them. I don’t think I’ll be doing the front Mugen covers but I think the last piece I’ll do is the carbon mirrors and I’m calling it quits on the FK8 and just enjoy it.

DIY: CARPRO SiC on the J’s Racing Fit

So I’ve been pretty anxious to finally get this all done since buying the car but I just haven’t had time to dedicate until recently. It’s been killing me driving around a car I haven’t personally cleaned inside and out – I don’t know why – just an OCD thing or something…

Anyway, over the last week I’ve been tackling bit by bit on the Fit to at least bring it up to the level that I think is “clean”. It doesn’t matter who owned it before – even if it was a dude that was OCD like me, I’d probably end up redoing it again anyway LOL. Last week I did a full interior shampoo on everything – seats, carpet, doorsill fabric – anything that was able to be shampooed was indeed shampooed. I then steamed and cleaned up all crevices inside and in the door/trunk jams to get out the gunk that’s been sitting there for who knows how long. The good thing about going through the car is you get to clean everything… The bad thing is that you start to notice certain imperfections or things that you need to change or fix. On the interior, there are a few things that I’d like to tackle over time – IE., replacing the interior carpet with a new one, replacing some seals and adding in missing bolts that for whatever reason weren’t there to begin with…

The interior is boring so I never really took pics. The most exciting part is really just prepping and finally getting the coating on. This time, I opted for CARPRO SiC over the classic UK 3.0 + Gliss combo. SiC is still fairly new and there really isn’t much out there in terms of longevity but I wanted to take the chance on this one. Apparently it’s basically UK 3.0 + Gliss in one with the protection and slickness in one. I guess we’ll see over time, but I’ll talk about the process throughout the post.

The Fit in all its glory. Unwashed, unpolished, uncoated. Looks good from afar and not too shabby up close but not the best.

The first hand wash in the new garage too. Excuse the ugly flooring – new flooring doesn’t go in until mid-September.

The resident BI can’t wash the car without making sure his own barrels/wheels aren’t clean LOL

One of my favourite steps in the process is actually using an Iron filling cleaner like IronX. It could totally just be a psychological thing with the color changing effect but it does feel like it gets a lot of things that you can’t with a simple wash mitt or claybar.

The affected area was behind the door handles which I soaked a lot longer. You could even start to see the contaminants along the edge of the handle.

Upon soaking, you could see so much of that red leaking out and immediately start clearing up.

Other parts of the car that are often neglected are the pieces right up against black like near your grill and those little crevices. You can see a bit here which required some claybarring to remove.

Even after just IronX and a claybar, the car seems to shine even more…

One of the other things I’ll end up doing maybe over the winter is repainting certain pieces to all match. It’s not terrible but you can see that the bumper is slightly off compared to the rest of the front. It’s definitely not in your face noticeable but it bugs me…

I ended up claybarring the door sills and jams as there was a bunch of build up there…

All clean…

The side mirrors also had a bunch of build up which IronX and claybarring helped remove easily…

Always funny to see Champ White next to any other white cause then it just looks yellow hahaha

Done for the day. I let it just sit and dry over night because I hate polishing the car when there’s water drips just coming out from little crevices…

The next day, I started the polish. The paint was in fairly good condition already so I didn’t need much. I did a simple stage 1 polish with CARPRO Fixer and an orange pad.

Cleaned up the headlights nice


Side results…

Looking good on this side too…

The rear end was nice to polish as well. Got the tail lights all shined up as well as the rear hatch. Often times the hatch or rear of a car is super contaminated from all the kick up on the road. Gotta take care of the ass…

Got some of the swirls out of the wing too. Smooth carbon is the best carbon.

And the much anticipated SiC. I initially wanted to try a graphite coating but I’m just too invested and sold on the CARPRO ecosystem and lineup so I just decided to try SiC instead. Most of the thoughts on this have been fairly positive – the most notable feature of this being the slickness that it brings…

I will say that SiC is definitely slicker than UK 3.0 + Gliss right off the bat. It’s extremely nice and satisfying. It is also significantly easier to apply than UK 3.0. When I was doing it, the ambient temperature in the garage was about +20C and the cure time was anywhere between 1-10 minutes. I found that even after about 8-9 minutes, that was my sweet spot. It wasn’t hard to take off at all and it didn’t grab like UK 3.0 did when it flashed.

You might notice that the results produced a much deeper and strong gloss and shine. Even just on the headlight, I was thoroughly impressed with the deepness it created in a clear lens.

The hood produced a very nice shine and gloss as well.

I would say on dark colours, SiC seemed to really create a dark and deep gloss that is actually super noticeable. The wing and carbon weave here is a good example.

I thought it looked great after the polish but upon wiping off SiC, I didn’t think would’ve looked this good.

Gloss on the rear quarter… Beautiful

Tail lights just shining like a diamond

More gloss on the carbon canards…


And that’s that! Unfortunately, sometimes gloss can be a little understated on white but it does look great in person. The most important thing is now it’s protected – which is all I really wanted.

Bada bing bada boom! Stoked on finally being done. I opted not to coat the wheels yet – I’m going to probably take off all the wheels over winter and clean them up properly and then work on replacing other things like bolts and getting the fenders and sideskirts repainted and reinstalled a little better as well. Little things but in the end, it’s the small things that matter!

DIY: Mugen FK8 Lip Kit Install

I’ve been waiting a pretty long time for this day to come and it’s pretty freaking glorious. I spend a lot of my time – maybe even an unhealthy amount of time – thinking about how I should put the Type R together and I often go through so many parts in my head imagining and picturing what it would look like over and over again. Does anyone else do the same? lol

My dilemma is really trying to build it in the best way possible while retaining functionality and the “daily driver” aspect of it – particularly because of the need to haul the family and groceries or whatever else I need. It’s hard sometimes because there are some days that I want to slam it and put more aggressive wheels on it but then I wouldn’t be able to drive it as much as I want to lol. I’m sure a lot of other FK8 owners can agree that there aren’t many options out there either – so trying to build one that has your own flair and style is also equally challenging.

At the end of the day, the important thing to me is that high quality parts go on the car and go on with enough thought to make it worth it. There are so many Type R’s on the road and so many that unfortunately have been just “ruined”. It’s just disappointing to see a good car become so easily bastardized – it’s not a “Type R” problem either – but when you own a specific chassis and see other examples of it being just fucked up, it hurts the soul a little bit. It’s not the time or place for me to rant about it so I’ll just stop before I get ahead of myself…

Anyway, after seeing what Varis and Spoon had to finally offer – I decided to stay on track with Mugen. When the kit came out, I loved it but really wanted to wait it out a bit to see what other big names were going to offer and I was personally disappointed. Varis looked good at the sculpting stage but after completion, it was not much different than stock. Spoon also didn’t deviate much from the stock look and I guess I can’t blame them, the FK8 “out-of-the-box” is already aggressive as it is, so to change it and have it look good would be challenging – I don’t even know what I’d do to it LOL.

The almighty Mugen logo and box…

Of course Princess Elsa/Aria had to come check out what it was – asking if it was hers. You wish, kid.

Side skirts painted CW by Mugen

Front lip painted CW by Mugen

JDM instructions

JDM 3M primer for the adhesive…

As soon as I received it, I drove it right over to Tommy at Tint tech to 3M it.

He did a fantastic job – can’t even tell there’s wrap on it.

The front lip was super easy to install. Remove the bottom screw on each side of the front lip in the wheel well.

Remove the two OEM clips underneath.

I popped the lip on just to see if everything fit nicely… I had no doubt that it wouldn’t…

Secured with some tape just to hold everything in place

The install requires you to drill an extra hole into the stock sideskirt to bolt the top piece in. Mark it…

Drill the hole and insert the fastener into place – good to go.

Once all ready, pull up a piece of the 3M adhesive backing and put all the screws and clips in. Once you’re happy, pull the backing off and press 🙂


That Mugen emblem on the front is icing on the cake…

Love it.

I know there are some of you that were unsure of the OEM red grill garnish when I first put it on but my end vision was to have the Mugen lip tie it all together, and that it did!

I will say that although I didn’t doubt Mugen, I am blown away by the fit and finish of the front lip. It fits like OEM and there are absolutely no gaps and holes line up perfectly. This would be my first time dealing with Mugen body parts and I am a believer.

Front lip complete! But we’re not done yet…

The front lip actually came first and the sideskirts came a few days later… I was beginning to think they lost the sideskirts in transit, but thank God they didn’t. Waiting for parts to be delivered has got to be one of the most stressful things LOL

Stamp of authenticity on the sideskirts…

Again, laid out and ready for a mockup

Easy peasy.

Fitment again is perfect. Literally perfect lol – I don’t think I can emphasize this enough.

I ended up finishing the passenger side and forgot to take pictures because it was a little more involved than the front lip. More pics on the driver side below…

So the sideskirts were slightly more complicated because the instructions say to remove the whole sideskirt off the car. The reason is because you have to drill 4 additional holes on the underside of the skirt to attach clips to it.

Removing the sideskirts are a whole other process and while it “may” have been easier, I decided to just lift the car up and drill while it was in the air.

First time the wheels have been off lol…

You have to take the wheel off to drill an additional hole for the backside of the sideskirt.

Here’a s hot of the hole you have to drill to attached the Mugen sideskirt

I know it doesn’t line up here but it’s because the sideskirt was not fully bolted on yet and is just hanging loose. Don’t worry 🙂

Once you drill the four holes underneath, you need to drill one more top hole on the back of the sideskirt like I mentioned to put an additional screw in. You can see the newer black screw on top. Look at how perfect this thing fits… Again – emphasizing “perfect” lol

Tight fitment.

And voila!

Looks awesome!

Here’s a shot of it all together in the garage… Full pics coming soon. The Mugen kit definitely helps break up all the black from the white and visually lowers the car a little more. Super satisfied with the look.

And of course, as soon as it was all done – I prepped the lip kit and then coated with CQuartz. Literally one of the best things I’ve done to the car.

DIY: CARPRO CQuartz UK 3.0 on the Type R

With isolation in full effect now, there’s really nothing else to do but find things to pass the time… For a long time, I’ve really been wanting to ceramic coat the CTR but prior to all of this COVID-19 stuff, our weekends have always been busy and I’ve got no time during the week.

With the weather and the roads still not at a point where it’s good enough to drive the car, it’s at least nice enough to work in the garage without freezing your ass off. As a result, I picked up some CARPRO products at Carzilla and went to town this weekend.

I’ll try my best to walk you through the process – it’s hard without video and I didn’t have any dedicated video set up to even do it so pics should do!

The process probably took me a good 5-8 hours from start to finish. It was rather quick as the paint was already in decent condition and I had already paint corrected last year, so it was only a matter of going over again to get anything that accumulated since then.

Aria spent a lot of time outside with me keeping me company. All dressed up and ready to tackle the project…

I won’t talk about washing the car because that’s pretty self-explanatory… After washing, I soaked the car in IronX. I was a little skeptical of the product because I wasn’t actually sure how much it would get… But if I was going to do this, I might as well do it the right way and go all the way.

When you spray it on, it goes on clear and it smells horrible. It also lingers long after you’ve rinsed it off lol.

Here it is sprayed onto the grill. I think with the ambient temperature only being about +5C on Saturday, it might have been a bit too cold or this is what it looks like when applied over PPF.

More shots of it sitting doing its thing…

IronX is supposed to start to turn to a reddish purple to show you all the iron contaminants after about 5 minutes. On the front of the car, it was really start to show a lot..

Same with the sideskirts…

The hood was the biggest culprit of contaminants as you can see by the hood scoop.

Same with the back of the car where a lot of the soot and dirt kicks up while driving…

Another spot on the trunk.

After several minutes, you take a soft MF mitt/cloth and rub it into the surface to try and agitate it a bit more. It ends up working like a light soap.

I was expecting a lot to be on the doors, but there was little, if any.

Once you’re finished with IronX, the next step would be to clay bar. It’s important to use IronX first to make your claying a little bit easier. It just makes more sense to get rid of any iron first and then to use your clay to get anything it couldn’t get.

Work the clay in your palms to mold it to make a nice flat-ish piece to rub along the car.

I’m always a little skeptical about clay barring my cars because I always believe I take good care of it. I wash by hand using a bucket method, I dry by hand, and I wash often… But even as new as the CTR is, look at what came off of half of the car. Just goes to show you that clay barring is not underrated and should be done regularly…

On the other half of the car after remolding the clay to a fresh side.

One thing claybarring really helps with is cleaning the edges of your 3M. Over time, the edges of your 3M (if any) can gather some gunk. Claying gets rid of it nicely.

A nice fresh headlight…

After I was done claying, I washed the car one more time and I always hate drying it but it’s always Aria’s favourite thing to do. She’s pretty good at it too LOL

Work work work…

Nicely clayed and ready for the next step… 

Braving the chilly weather to help a brotha out.

All washed and dried. Ready for polish.

My go-to polish has always been Menzerna. It works well with good results and has pretty low dusting.

I had to remove the Advan decals as well so I could apply ceramic coating properly. Sad 😦

Here’s the passenger side after the first pass of polishing… Meanwhile, Aria is sweeping the water out of the garage. LOL

Also removed the license plate to polish and clean behind there. It was filthy back there. Don’t forget that!

I also got a smaller backing plate so that I could get the little areas that a 6″ pad can’t get. Also important for little crevices and such to properly polish those hard-to-reach areas.

Oh and as a side note, I’m using a Porter Cable 7424. Believe it or not, this thing is almost 12 years old and is still running like a champ. It has literally been bulletproof for me. I want to make the jump to a rotary but this thing won’t die! LOL oh well… It’s served me well all these years and continues to do so.

Here’s a shot of the wing and hatch being polished.

And here is the finished result – all swirls and micro-marring gone. 

Another piece I ended up doing was the tail lights and head lights. I can’t stand hazy lights… 

A closer shot…

Front grill and bumper all polished up…

Looking all slick.

Another shot. Note – the front is fully wrapped in PPF. As good as it is at hiding swirls, it doesn’t prevent everything. I ended up lightly polishing it as well and it came out good as new.

Crystal clear.

Another shot…

Had to call it a day as the sun was setting and it was getting too cold to do much else. I left it in the garage ready to tackle it today.

Half polished at this point…

Looking pretty spiffy so far…

Today, we were at it again. Slightly warmer outside and her Porsche was all charged and ready to go.

After I finished up polishing what I didn’t finish yesterday, the next and final step was to spray the panels with CARPRO Eraser. Eraser, unlike IronX, smells delicious. The purpose of Eraser is to just remove any polishing oils and dust that’s left over so that you’ve got a nice clean surface to apply your ceramic coating onto.

I figured I might as well do all the jams too…

All nice and clean…

Sideskirts all clean. Yes, the plastic is still on the door sills LOL.

I should note that I didn’t wipe the whole car down with Eraser and then move onto ceramic coating. I ended up going one panel at a time to ensure I had a clean surface each time. I would wipe Eraser on and buff off, and then apply CQuartz – panel by panel.

I got the 30ml bottle. Plenty to do 2 coats on the CTR plus a little more…

The included blox and suede cloth to apply…

Here’s the passenger side with CQuartz applied. Honestly not too different – it’s a little glossier and glassier but it’s not like I was bringing the paint back from terrible condition. It was pretty good to begin with.

I ended up finishing the whole car before taking anymore pics before the final results. One thing to keep in mind is flashing time and your ambient temperature. It was about +7C outside when applying and I was in the garage, so it flashed a little slower. By the time I finished 1/4 of the car, I figured the flash time for me was about 45 seconds to a minute – that’s when I was getting a bit of grab on the cloth and it wasn’t too difficult to remove.

After wiping away, always check for high spots using your ambient lighting. Check your panels at every angle and see if you missed a spot. It’s particularly harder to see on white since light reflects off of it so easily, but if you have good lighting, it’s pretty easy to spot. Think of it as checking for where you applied wax and missed wiping it away – you’re looking for a bit of haziness…

Finally all done! I took it outside to do one final check – especially on the black parts of the car.

Car looks great now! It’s never been this clean – even on the first day I picked it up lol.

Again, hard to see but it’s definitely shining…

And Aria always getting in the way…

I turned down the exposure so you could see it a bit better. No more swirls… Just full on gloss.

If it has done anything, it’s made the Champ white look even better!

Nice and slick.

Grill looking fire.

Wing and hatch nice and slick…

First time seeing the Fujitsubo outside in daylight too haha  

One last booty shot. It was pretty damn bright outside so it was hard to get good pics…

Obligatory Type R photo…

Unfortunately, any cloth you use to work with the ceramic coating must be trashed after. They’ll just get hard with ceramic in them and be unusable anyway. RIP.

The only thing left for me to do is let the coating sit on the car for another 24 hours and I think I’ll be applying one last coat for good measure. I have enough product for it anyway. Once that’s done, I let the car sit for about a week or two and I’ll apply CARPRO Reload.

Reload is basically the cherry that goes on top of your ceramic coat. It’s what provides the slick feeling and the gloss that you’re familiar with when applying waxes. CQuartz on its own doesn’t provide that just to be clear. It’s not smooth after application like wax is. You need reload to top it off and to maintain it every few months. It’s literally a spray on sealant… There’s conflicting views on how soon to apply it after ceramic coating – some say right after, some say the next day and some say to wait as long as possible if the car doesn’t have to go out. I’m going with the latter since all I have is time… The car remains in the garage for likely another month so the coating has lots of time to cure.

And one last shot of Aria to close it off. What an exhausting but rewarding project… I can’t wait for it to rain. LOL